Interlocking services in Vaughan

Interlock driveways

Heavier base, thicker stone and a proper crown so the surface carries vehicle weight and sheds water away from the garage.

A driveway carries several thousand kilos of vehicle every day and takes the worst of the freeze and thaw, so it gets the deepest build we do. Twelve inches of compacted granular over geotextile, more where the subgrade is clay and holds water, then a crown and a fall that move meltwater to the street instead of the garage slab.

• 60mm stone rated for vehicle traffic
• Apron regraded so the door threshold sheds water
• Saw-cut soldier border to hold the field

Interlock patios

Backyard living space laid flat and true, pitched just enough to drain without you ever noticing the slope.

A patio can be laid flatter than a driveway because nothing heavy is parked on it, but it still needs a fall. We set roughly two percent away from the house, which is enough to keep water off the foundation and gentle enough that furniture does not rock and you never notice the slope underfoot.

• Level to the eye, pitched to the house
• Sized around a real table and chairs, not a drawing
• Steps and seat walls built into the same base

Walkways and front entrances

Front walks and side paths sized for two people to pass, with borders that keep the field pattern crisp for decades.

Front walks are the piece of stone work everyone sees and the piece most often built too narrow. We size them so two people can pass without stepping onto the lawn, usually four feet, and wrap the porch landing with a border course so the pattern reads clean from the street.

• Four feet wide wherever the frontage allows
• Border course wrapping landings and turns
• Lighting sleeves run before the base goes in

Segmental retaining walls

Engineered block walls with drainage stone and geogrid behind them, built to hold grade instead of leaning into it.

A wall is a drainage problem before it is a stacking problem. Ours get drainage stone and perforated pipe behind them and geogrid tied back into the slope on anything with real load, because a wall that cannot shed water is a wall that leans into your yard a few winters from now.

• Drainage stone and perforated pipe behind every wall
• Geogrid reinforcement where height or load calls for it
• Engineered design and permit support past four feet

Pool decks and surrounds

Slip-resistant slabs and coping around the water, detailed to handle deck movement and pool chemistry.

Around water the requirements change. Slabs need texture that is not slippery underfoot, coping has to sit true against the pool edge, and the whole deck needs a fall away from the water with somewhere for it to go. Pool chemistry is hard on the wrong sealer, so we specify accordingly.

• Slip-resistant slab and true-set coping
• Fall away from the waterline with hidden drainage
• Salt and chlorine tolerant jointing

Steps and landings

Consistent rise and run on every tread, set on a compacted footing that will not tip after the first winter.

Steps are where sloppy work shows up fastest, because your feet notice a quarter inch. Every tread gets the same rise and run, and the whole flight sits on a compacted footing rather than on fill, which is why they are still level after the first winter.

• Consistent rise and run across the full flight
• Compacted footing below frost-susceptible fill
• Solid tread units rather than stacked thin stone

Interlock repair and relevelling

Sunken sections, heaved walkways and washed-out joints lifted, rebased and reset using your existing stone.

Most sunken sections do not need a new driveway. We lift the affected stone, stack it, correct the base underneath, and reset the original pavers. It costs a fraction of a replacement, and if the stone is a discontinued line, reusing it is often the only way to keep the surface matching.

• Existing stone lifted, rebased and reset
• Sunken aprons, heaved walks and washed-out joints
• Honest answer when replacement is genuinely better value

Cleaning and sealing

Deep clean, fresh polymeric sand and a breathable sealer that holds colour without turning the surface glossy.

Sealing is worth doing and easy to overdo. We deep clean, replace the joint sand, and use a breathable sealer that holds colour and lets the slab dry out. What we will not do is put a high-gloss film on a surface that needs to breathe, because that is how you get a cloudy driveway two years later.

• Deep clean and fresh polymeric sand first
• Breathable, non-glossy sealer
• Re-sanding every seven to ten years as maintenance